ByCourtney WalkerTempo Writer

When we last saw our hero, she had spent three wonderful days inCuba. Courtney, along with her best girl Sunny, went on wild taxirides, tasted the wonderful Cuban food, made several new friends andvisited the tourist trap Habana Vieja. Now the girls find themselveswith machismo Cuban men. What will happen? Will they behave? Willthis story have more to it than intoxication and boys? Let’s see.

Day 4

I overslept and missed the Hemingway tour. I wanted to go, but asI was getting ready for my day I thought, Hemingway wouldn’t go on aHemingway tour.

I felt better.

Last night was cool. The bell boy was a perfect gentleman and hebought me a flower. I told him not to. I don’t want him to spend anymoney on me because I know how hard it is here. His job is one of themost sought-after in Cuba. He has to pay kickbacks in order to keephis job. If he doesn’t, they can easily find someone who can.

When they walked us back to the hotel, the bell boy could walk meall the way to the door, but Mr. Chestnut had to say goodbye to Sunnyat the corner, away from the hotel. He told Sunny that if the policesee him with her at the hotel they will harass him. Staying in ahotel that doesn’t allow Cubans makes me feel terrible, like anelitist.

The hotel is dope, but I’m never staying here again.

Cubansare harassed a lot. A policeman stopped me last night. He scared thehell out of me. He asked for my identification because he thought Iwas Cubana. I showed him my passport and visa. He was really meanuntil he saw that I was American, then he was cool. Punk.

After a little bit of work, Sunny and I had dinner at a restauranta block from the university. We made friends with the waitress andinvited her to have a cigarette with us. We talked for a while andshe laughed at the way we spoke Spanish. She even told some otherdiners what we said and they laughed at us also. Since I know how tosay “cockroach” in Spanish, I told her about the roach I killed inour hotel room. She didn’t believe me.

We met Ollie and the bell boy again at 11 p.m. We had to workearly, so before leaving the hotel, I told Sunny that we probablyshouldn’t stay out too late tonight. She agreed. A few minutes later,I looked at my watch and it was 4 a.m. Sunny and I began to call thisphenomenon “Cuba Time.” Time has no meaning here. It’s very relaxedand easygoing. I don’t know how I’m going to revert to the rat raceof America. I feel at home here.

Day 5

Today we worked. We had to cover the meeting at the ministry offoreign affairs. At the university, Sunny interviewed two studentsand I took their pictures. Afterward, they told us about a salsafestival that started Friday night at 7 and didn’t end until Saturdaymorning at 7. We were down, so we made plans to meet them Fridaynight.

Tonight we had dinner with the president of the University ofHavana. I was curious to see what kind of house this guy had.Everyone in Cuba seemed to be on the same level, so I wondered if hishouse would be big. It was, but it had a weird vibe. It didn’t feellike people lived there. I think it belongs to the university and isused for entertaining only.

Wemet Ollie and the bell boy again. While at the bar there was ablack-out, but just on one side of the street. This happens often.The other day while I was running through the lobby the lights wentout and the waterfall stopped. People say the frequent black-outs arejust a part of life in Cuba.

Day 6

It was another late night. We went to Redys’ house. She is afriend we met earlier this week. She gave me some medicine for themosquito bites I got the other night. I have to remember not to wearshorts at night.

We went with her to pick up her grandson Dayron. His little schoolwas great. The children were so sedate. When we took their picturessome of them started to cry. They didn’t know what the hell we weredoing. A lady said something to them in Spanish, they all got up,pushed in their chairs and filed into what I assume was their playroom. There, they danced around and some curious babies came over toinvestigate us.

We walked with Redys’ to her daughter’s job. She works in a casade musica. On the way, Dayron grabbed his crotch and started madlyhopping down the street. He had to go to the bathroom and many Cubansstopped their activity to laugh at him. He made it with no accidents.

We decided not to go to the salsa festival. It cost like sevenbones, and we didn’t want to alienate our Cuban friends who couldn’tafford to go. We decided to go bar-hopping again.

Tomorrowis my last day and I’m hating life. I’ve never traveled outside ofthe United States. Cuba has taught me so many things. It has taughtme how beautiful people can be. It’s taught me to be more thankfulfor my things and oppurtunities. Cuba is such a wonderful place. Forme this wasn’t a political trip, this was a people trip. I came hereto meet and talk with Cubans. The people are like none I’ve ever met.If there was a way for me to stay, I wouldn’t hesitate.

It is illegal to travel to Cuba without permission from theTreasury Department. To get to Cuba, you can fly out of Mexico. Isuggest Tijuana. A package including round trip air, hotel (7 days),free breakfast and shuttle will run you about $900. Staying in aprivate home will run you 25 bucks a night.

Upon your return, get rid of anything that might suggest that youwent to Cuba. Ideally, get a ride from the Tijuana airport and tellthem you were in Rosarito if border officers ask. It would be a goodidea to bring about $500 cash. You cannot use checks, credit cards ortravelers checks in Cuba. Contact Taino Tours in Mexico (Tel:(66)84-70-01) and read “Lonely Planet: Cuba.”