Courtesy of Oceanaire Seafood Room

It’s located Downtown in an almost secret location – marked by two modest signs and an overhang on the corner. Seafood restaurant Oceanaire Seafood Room is high-class dining for those who want to impress a date or simply stretch their parents’ wallet.It’s located on J Street and Fourth Avenue, and the executive chef makes sure no expectations fall short. Patrons eat food prepared under the direction of Brian Malarkey, who’s competing on Bravo’s TV series “Top Chef.” Inside the restaurant, diners find an atmosphere comparable to an extravagant yacht. Decorated in warm blue lights, leather booths and a walk-up bar with an affordable happy hour menu, it’s a prime location for those wanting to try a selection of fresh East and West coast oysters. The cornerstone of the cuisine is a continually changing fresh selection of seafood from around the world. Most high-end steak houses rotate different choices of beef, and Oceanaire has done this with its seafood selection. Instead of re-inventing the way one cooks beef, Malarkey has customized the seafood people eat. From sole to salmon and the highly recommended oyster bar, the gourmet taste of seafood rings out in every dish. Most of the waiters and oyster bar staff eagerly make suggestions on what to eat. The most common suggestion is “There is nothing that won’t disappoint you on this menu,” and this is correct.One of the top delicacies on the list of suggestions was the “Drunken Coho Salmon.” It’s a perfectly grilled salmon accompanied by port-soaked cherries, pleasing even the most skeptical salmon fans. The “drunken cherries” compliment the fish, creating a perfect balance. Another highly recommended dish by the oyster bar staff is “Fisherman’s Platter,” which features an array of oysters, cod, shrimp, scallops and many other fresh choices from the sea – all battered and deep-fried to perfection. Although the variety of battered seafood sits on top of an unconquerable mountain of fries, the select pieces of seafood with the freshly made house sauces are worth the embarrassment of leaving a nearly full plate of fries. One of the only turnoffs of the restaurant is the celebrity-like prices, which can easily reach more than $100 for a dinner for two – two entrees, oysters and a couple glasses of wine. This is why the college students’ budget begs them to wait for a special occasion or a family visit in town.The success of the restaurant can easily be attributed to the highly touted head chef Malarkey. Since joining the Oceanaire chain of restaurants, he has worked his way up the ladder and has been winning local and national attention, according to Oceanaire’s Web site. Malarkey is now in the final four of “Top Chef,” but being named 2007 Chef of the Year by the California Restaurant Association made him a celebrity before he was on the TV screen. The fame and recognition are well deserved for Oceanaire and Malarkey. The menu speaks for itself with a mastery of seafood that is worth a classy night Downtown.